PETROPAVLOVSK, RUSSIA

PK as it is called for short, has been shut off from the outside world, especially during the Soviet era when it housed Russia's largest nuclear submarine base and important military radar installations. PK's Avacha Bay (where our ship was anchored) was absolutely off limits to all Russians and all foreigners throughout the Cold War. It has only been open to outsiders since 1991. No wonder hardly any of the passengers had been here previously. And geographically, PK is also shut off. It is surrounded by mountains and volcanoes and the only way to reach PK is by air or sea. There are no roads leading to PK. Because there are no roads connecting the Kamchatka Peninsula to the rest of the world, PK is the second largest city (pop. 200,000 people) in the world that cannot be reached by road.

The Kamchatka Peninsula is part of the Ring of Fire, the string of volcanoes that encircle the Pacific Ocean. Here on the peninsula are 68 active volcanoes. There are also hot springs and geysers here too.

This city is perched on the hills surrounding Avacha Bay, one of the most natural and efficient bays in the world.

The Kamchatka Peninsula is known for its Siberian husky dogs and for the world's densest population of brown bears. Hunters fly in from around the world to shoot a trophy brown bear.

We arrived in this beautiful white bay of Avacha to bitter cold weather and snow. Everyone was bundled up in warm clothes ready for the cold Siberian north. We had to anchor the ship and therefore had to go by tenders to shore. The poor Pilipino crew were freezing and ended up buying Russian toques for their cold heads. Before we were allowed to leave the ship, we had 4 Russian military soldiers onboard checking our passports etc and looking very official and scary. We then were allowed to go to shore and boarded a fairly nice bus spewing out nice warm heat. (One week ago, our tour buses in Japan had air conditioning on.) We had a very knowledgeable guide who spoke fairly good English. We proceeded into town, past many many old, dilapidated apartment buildings. The cars on the roads were left handed steering and right handed steering vehicles. It was funny watching all these drivers on different sides of the cars. The roads had pot holes and the sides of the streets were filled with snow.

We arrived first of all at the local church. The Russian Orthodox Church was old and dark inside with many lit candles. Locals were coming and going to the alters to light candles and pray. The city is building a huge, new church which is much larger up on the hill behind this old one. We were then driven to a local market place. We were getting out of the bus when we came upon a drunk who was stumbling around early in the morning. His friend took his hand and helped walk him to a local bus. So sad. We saw many stores with huge buckets full of caviar of all kinds. We were given samples to eat. The stores also had counters full of a variety of fish that is caught in the area. PK transports their catch of fish all over the world but especially to Japan. Men and young boys were carrying beer in their hands drinking and walking in full view. No smiles or hellos from the people just grim faces. So depressing to see. Alcoholism is rampit in Russia along with male suicides. The population of Russia is dropping because of these two factors.

We then headed out to Observation Hill to look at the famous Avacha Bay. It is huge with many fishing vessels. The guide pointed to a small bay hidden just off Avacha Bay and said this is where the Russian submarines are stationed but it is a secret and don't tell anyone. We laughed. There was snow everywhere. We then went to see the Military Museum which was very old. Saw a huge mine that was thrown into the ocean and a stuffed brown bear. Walking into the museum, you had to go down a tunnel of snow all around. Doug stood looking so small beside the huge piles of snow.

We tried to see the volcanic mountain that is blowing out smoke daily, but because of the foggy weather conditions, it could not be seen. On good days, the volcano can be viewed from anywhere in the city.

We headed towards the ship and went into the old terminal where we could purchase Russian goods and were offered mounds of caviar on rye bread and shots of strong strong Vodka. That is certainly Russian.

Some other people who took other tours, for example the helicopter tour, were offered a toilet outdoors, no roof, no door and a hole in the ground. That was the state of the toilets when you pay $900 per person to take a heli tour.

We all found the place so so depressing and grey and sad. Even the Vietnamese who are poorer are happier and friendlier. We were told by a lecturer on the ship, you would be depressed too if you lived in Russia.

Are we glad we are heading towards Alaska, but the only downside is we are losing one hour daily and the entire ship is walking around yawning and tired and sleepy. We have lost 4 hours and have 3 more hours to lose. So more sleepless nights.

We are putting the heat on in our rooms instead of air conditioning and dressing up warm. In a week, we will be putting air conditioning on and taking off our warm clothes. No wonder people have been catching colds around the ship.